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The hotlist 2009: The fashion designer: Richard Nicoll

{ Published on   3 January 2009  }

For San Francisco readers keeping up-to-date on the latest style news, we are pleased to provide this story/excerpt from The London Guardian.

Last spring, at one of Vogue’s fashion dinners, 30-year-old designer Richard Nicoll, found himself next to Topshop tycoon Philip Green at editor Alexandra Shulman’s request. After an uncomfortable silence, Nicoll bit his lip and introduced himself to the man who had sponsored his last two collections. Green looked blank. He had never heard of Nicoll.

Fortunately, no offence was taken and Topshop has commissioned a third collection this spring, described as “his hottest to date”. Nicoll says these high-street collaborations are “fun godsends”. So you’re not loaded? “No way. Fashion gives the perception that designers are minted. Four years ago, I had one stockist. I almost quit.” Eight seasons later, he has moved from London’s Bethnal Green, spiritual home of the up and coming, to establishment Bloomsbury. “The flat’s a dive, but I can sort of see Topshop [the Oxford Street flagship] from it.”

Renowned for his clean tailoring, feminine shirts and grown-up tees, Nicoll’s name is more buzz than household. He is shy, prodigious and has long since left behind partying at fashion-scene mecca BoomBox. Since seeing his 2002 Central Saint Martins graduate collection snapped up by Dolce & Gabbana, he has worked at Louis Vuitton, been crowned best young designer at the 2008 Elle Style Awards and still finds time to work on his own label. Initially lauded for his unisex designs, Nicoll maintains that his Crayola-coloured spring-summer 09 collection is aimed at Everywoman: “My designs are democratic.” With distinctly undemocratic price tags? “Yes, but I want the wearer to mix high street with couture. After all, every woman needs a good T-shirt.” Indeed – he’s dressed Kylie, Björk and Sofia Coppola.

So, big things for 2009 then? Nicoll shrugs and modestly predicts a year of quiet toil. In fact, it will see his label debuting in Moscow, an inaugural autumn-winter preview collection and the designer naming his first muse – artist Linder Sterling, upon whom his entire spring-summer collection is based. Nicoll is increasingly comfortable playing the fashion game whose high-street trends are dictated by a 56-year-old tycoon. It’s just as well Green isn’t tasked with recognising his designers.

Three others to watch

Louise Goldin
Knitwear designer adored by the style cognescenti.

Emma Summerton
Fast-rising photographer set for more glossy mag cover shoots.

Danielle Scutt
Gwen Stefani is already an admirer of her feminine designs.

guardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2009 | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds

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